Napa Wine is from Bakersfield! and other stuff you may not know
Apr2
I love wine. I also realized how little I know about it, especially when compared to my knowledge of the only other potables I regularly consume- coffee and tea (my teeth really should be brown at this point). Wine is of particular interest when its cultural relevance is considered. There is evidence of wine production in Egypt, Greece, and Syria as early as 5000 years BCE, making it the oldest known fermented beverage. Wine is also a major part of world religions; Jesus turned water into wine (reason enough to invite him to weddings), Jews say the Kiddush over every Sabbath, and the Greeks worshipped their own god of wine and merriment, calling him Dionysus (my favorite resurrection god). Wine is historic.
I was under the impression that I possessed a respectable knowledge of wine for a casual drinker; being able to shoot off snobby adjectives like “minerally” or “black-current-like”, knowing a little about which varietals grow where. It’s made from grapes, right? However, I quickly realized that I couldn’t explain the cost variations in wine, didn’t really know what the label indicates, was clueless to the processing methods, and hadn’t thought about the environmental impacts of this agricultural product. Let me say first, that this was a research assignment that a developing wino can really get behind. My methods included interviews (accompanied by tastings) with wine specialists, as well as internet research and in home experiments (more tastings). This research relates general information on the industry as a whole, and specific information on two wines from California—Bonny Doon’s Ca’ del Solo nebbiolo (costing $29) and Charles Shaw’s “two buck Chuck” (a Trader Joe’s exclusive).
Wine grapes are typically grown in temperate climates, between 20 and 50 degrees North or South latitudes, the top three wine producing countries in the world are France, Italy and Spain; the United States come in a distant fourth, with the state of California leading the nation. The most common species of grape grown for wine is the vitis vinifera, which includes hundreds of varietals, both red and white, in a list so extensively long, and inclusive of every grape I’ve ever heard of, that my professed love of the “lesser known” viognier seems absolutely ludicrous. To produce wine, the grapes must be harvested, crushed, and fermented twice before bottling.
Harvest occurs around September/October in the Northern Hemisphere, and February/ March in the Southern. My romantic image of wine harvesting always included someone hand- picking grapes with a discerning eye for quality, and it the reality isn’t far off. Harvest is done when the grapes say they’re ready, and not on any human’s schedule. The grapes are analyzed for their Brix (sugar content), tartaric acid, and pH levels. When balance is achieved, weather needs to cooperate; harvest cannot occur shortly after rain because the grapes will actually increase their water content and produce a “thin” wine. Most wines in America, like the Bonny Doon, are hand harvested; this allows for quality control, omitting grapes with mold and excessive foreign materials, like leaves, rocks, and small animals. Most Australian vineyards are planted for mechanical harvesting, done by very large tractors. This country has a shortage of manual laborers, due in part to its isolated geography and conservative immigration policies. The mechanical harvesting is less expensive, and helps to explain why Australian wines are typically around six dollars, even though they have come from the opposite side of the world; it also explains the unrefined taste. Charles Shaw wines are also harvested mechanically, and the minimal labor results in a two-dollar price (and two- dollar flavor).
After the harvest is the crushing and pressing. The grapes are crushed to release juices and either separated from their skins, or allowed to macerate with them for a few hours to a few days, depending on the desired result. The combined grape juice and skin is called must. The color of the wine is largely affected by this; white wines (most notably Champagne) are frequently made from dark grapes (Pinot Noir) by separating the must immediately to avoid pigmentation. And a beautiful, tawny colored dessert wine I tasted a Bonny Doon was made from entirely white grapes; the specialist explained that red wine could be made from white grapes as a chemical reaction from the acids in the skins. The chemistry is astounding. This is also when the initial fermentation occurs. Yeast is naturally present on the grapes; it appears powdery on the skins. Bonny Doon uses these native yeasts to ferment the wine because they believe it adds to the local taste of the wine (it also reduces the cost of farm inputs), but most wine makers use cultivated yeasts because they produce consistent, predictable result. One benefit of wild yeast is that it ferments slowly, thereby generating less heat. Wines fermented with commercial yeasts often require massive amounts of refrigeration to maintain the desired rate of sugar conversion. The initial fermentation, lasting from a few days to a couple weeks, turns the natural fruit sugars into alcohol, and the yeast die and become sediment known as lees. Bonny Doon stirs the lees in to the wine before second fermentation, producing a yeasty aroma and dry, silty texture in their wines. Most wine makers allow the lees to settle before moving into a second fermentation vessel, making a clearer wine. I don’t like lees and decanting just separates me from the wine for a longer time.
Second fermentation occurs much more slowly as most of the yeast has died and there is minimal residual sugar to convert. This can be done in stainless steel containers or wood barrels. Stainless steel vessels have the benefit of being indefinitely reusable and inexpensive; they also maintain the taste of the grape without imparting any other flavors. Bonny Doon, and other producers of more expensive wines, use oak barrels (usually French oak, costing $600 a barrel compared to American oak at $289) for the second fermentation; it imparts flavor to the finished product, and French oak is known for is subtlety. Some producers of cheap wine will use the stainless steel and add oak chips to impart flavor. These production choices are reflected in the price of the finished product. The wines are bottled and distributed (or sometimes the other way around) after the second fermentation.
The mysterious label indicates information that is intended to qualify the quality of the wine, as well as disseminate legally required facts; alcohol content, volume, origin, distributor, and vintage. The most inexplicable of these to me was the origin or appellation as the French call it. What’s in a name? The concept behind naming the place of the wine’s origin is terrior, which is loosely translated from French as “the taste of the place”. The idea is that the local geography, microclimate, and soil contents all affect the taste of the wine, to an even greater extent than the varietal used. The assumption I challenged is that the place indicated on the label is actually the origin of the grapes. It turns out the label doesn’t necessarily indicate everything about the birthplace of the grapes. The right to use an appellation is protected by the laws of the originating name (like the familiar California sparkling wine is NOT Champagne law) but there are loopholes. A Napa Valley indication only requires 85% of the grapes to be from that county, the remaining percentage can be from anywhere; a grower can buy cheaper grapes from somewhere else to extend their vintage. Another loophole exploited by the Franzia brothers, the owners of Charles Shaw, is that the law includes a grandfather clause, any vineyard bearing the name “Napa” prior to the creation of the law is excluded. The Franzia brothers purchased vineyards in the San Joaquin Valley, already named Napa, and sell Fresno grown grapes as Napa Valley wines—legally. I question the importance of naming appellation in commercial vineyards; the use of cultivated yeasts, chemical inputs, and grafting seem to have a homogenizing affect on the taste of many wines.
Bonny Doon emphasizes the terrior of their wines by eliminating outside influences on the flavor of their wines with biodynamic viniculture; it also has the added effect of excluding the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and fungicides (which are frequently used in wine making, as many appellations have constant exposure to sea moisture). This winemaker has strictly adhered to biodynamic growing methods since 2004, and achieved third party certification from the Demeter Institute in 2007; all of the growers from whom they purchase grapes are also held to the same standards. (They use outside growers to offset the cost of land, as well as eliminating a requirement to purchase inferior grapes during years of bad harvest.)
I was excited by their biodynamic practices, and I thought I knew what this meant–planting and harvesting according the cycle of the moon, like my veggie garden (two more weeks for radishes. But “biodynamic” means a whole lot more. The idea is to enrich the soil and harness “cosmic forces” within the fruit; I get soil enrichment, but what do “cosmic forces” taste like, and how are they harnessed? Biodynamic agriculture requires nine specific preparations; one for each of the planets (per 1924 knowledge). One field preparation requires burying the manure from a fertile cow in the horn of a bull from the autumn to spring equinox; and field mice are eradicated by sprinkling the vineyard with ashes of field mouse skin—when Venus is in the Scorpius constellation! These processes seem akin to lighting votive candles or reading tarot cards; any results are difficult to measure, and may be imaginary. But the certification does allow for a price increase of around thirty percent, so it’s good for business.
So, I’m clearly not a biodynamic convert, but I was curious how these methods compare to organic farms. Several studies have shown that biodynamic soils are comparable to organic soils, and significantly richer than conventionally farmed soils; the seven compost preparations are considered largely responsible. Biodynamic farms also use minimal farm inputs, therefore creating a smaller carbon footprint than farms reliant on chemical fertilizers and seeds. I was also unsure of why the Bonny Doon wine isn’t also certified organic, as their methods seemed as though they might qualify. The specialist indicated that the vineyard is not certified organic, and that their winemaking methods would not allow them to qualify, they use sulfites to preserve the wine and prevent oxidation. Any wine with sulfur content higher than 100ppm cannot be labeled certified organic. This also explains why their wines cause terrible headaches in my sulfur sensitive spouse.
Now that I know a little more about why some wines are more expensive than others are, I understand that “two- buck” Chuck’s cheap price reflects deceptive labeling, inexpensive land, and minimal investments in labor and production. I also recognize that Bonny Doon’s higher prices reflect a commitment to terrior, stewardship of the land, and the premium cost of certified mysticism. So which wine will I purchase in the future? Neither. Chuck’s cheap compromises are evident in the flavor, and Bonny Doon’s “cosmic forces” aren’t. I will continue to purchase wine based on its deliciousness, try to buy more California products to reduce to energy used in transporting my beloved Spanish wines, and bring organic wines home whenever price and flavor meet.